Albania

 

Albania is a small, poor, mostly Muslim country sandwiched between Montenegro and Greece.  Most of the nation's land area is rural, mountainous highlands, but most of the people live in the fertile coastal lowland region.  The country's rugged and inaccessible terrain traditionally has isolated Albania from its neighbors. 

Following World War II, Albania embraced a strict brand of communism - no churches, no travel, no swimming in the sea, no foreign music or news, no freedom of expression.  Money was spent to build over 600,000 bunkers to protect the country from invisible and unknown enemies, instead of housing and infrastructure. 

The country remained isolated and economically underdeveloped until 1991, when the country began experimenting with democratic reform and a free-market economy.  It has been a bumpy road due to endless political infighting.  Today, there is calm - though there is much government corruption and the Albanian mafia is much feared throughout Europe.

Our short visit to Albania began in the port city of Sarande, situated on a horseshoe bay.  Today the city (as well the country) is trying hard to overcome its history. Most of the financing for new construction is coming from Albanians living abroad.  Over 100 hotels have been built in and around Sarande, making tourism a bigger business than the traditional fishing.  Note the colorful buildings along the shore - the concrete apartment buildings have been painted in an attempt improve the appeal to would-be tourists. 

Other apartment buildings were destroyed because the builder didn't obtain the proper permissions from the government. 

Outside of town, poverty is still obvious - most roads aren't paved and subsistence farming is the norm, although some people are now fish-farming for larger markets.

Our main destination was Butrint, a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognized as one of the great classical cities of the Mediterranean.  By the 4th Century B.C., a walled settlement was established here and Butrint was an important city though the Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian periods.  The city was abandoned during the Middle Ages and today Butrint is a major archeological site that is a microcosm of Mediterranean history. (More to come - only about 15% of the city has been excavated at this time.) 

In front of this watchtower, there is a 4th Century BC sanctuary dedicated to the Greek healing god, Asclepius.

This complex of buildings was known as the Agora in Greek times, and the Forum in Roman times.  During Byzantine and Venetian times, this area remained the civic and commercial heart of the city.  Today it looks like a fish pond due to recent heavy rains.

Greek portions of the ruins are the huge blocks.  Arches are indicative of Roman architecture - the ancient Greeks never learned how to make arches.  Very small stones are probably remnants of the Byzantine period.  Each succeeding wave of civilization did not destroy what was there before - they just modified or added on to suit their needs and purposes.

This 3rd Century BC theater, originally built by the Greeks, but later adapted to become an impressive Roman amphitheater - with the addition of a building behind the stage.

This is what remains of a Roman bath-house built in the 2nd Century A.D.

This water filled structure was the Roman 'gymnasium.'  It probably was a pagan site, later converted into a church.

This circular structure was an early 6th Century baptistery with a mosaic floor, representing Christian salvation.  Recent heavy rains have obscured the floor.

These arches are part of the ancient Roman aqueduct, which brought fresh water into the town.

These arches were part of The Great Basilica, an early Christian church, built in the 6th Century B.C.   Here a bit of the floor is exposed showing the beautiful mosaic tiles that are amazingly well-preserved.

Near the salty Butrint Lake, this is part of the Byzantine city wall.  The town was located at the end of a peninsula - a good defensive position.

The Lake Gate is a fine example of Greek entrance ways - Margaret is standing next to a wall built by the Greeks - those blocks are really big - hard to imagine how they were transported to this place. 

The Lion's Gate is another example of Greek architecture, but this one was modified.  In the Byzantine period, the doorway was lowered by the addition of a large stone.

The top of the hill was known as the acropolis. Settlement here dates back to the 8th Century B.C.  The Venetian castle and tower inside the walls were built in the 14th-16th Century.  The castle was reconstructed in the 1930's and now houses a museum. 

Back at sea level, here's the ferry hauling a bus across the canal that connects Lake Butrint with the Ionian Sea.  And bringing up the rear, our guide and several others in our travelling group.