Croatia - Mainland

Looking at Europe on a globe, the little country at dead center is Croatia.   With 3,600 miles of coastline and 1,185 islands, Croatia feels like an Eastern European Riviera.  Its history, however, is not so bright and sunny.  Croatia was settled by the Slavs who migrated from the Middle East to Russia and then south across the Danube River.  The Croats settled in the Balkans in the early 7th century and became part of the Roman Empire.  After losing its independence to Hungary in 1102, Croatia watched as most of its coastline became Venetian and its interior was conquered by the Ottomans.  Austria then took over, and after World War II, Croatia became part of Yugoslavia.  Many Croats regretted this decision until after they finally gained independence in 1991 through a bitter war with their Serbian neighbors.  Today, Croatia is a young democracy of royal parentage - there are plenty of reminders of Venice, Vienna, and Rome.

ZAGREB

Our first stop was Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, a vibrant city of around 750,000 people.  It boasts a charming medieval 'old city' with architecture  and cobbled streets reminiscent of other central European cities. The city is alive with what seems like endless hordes carrying briefcases or bags of bread and flowers past a perpetual gallery sipping coffee at sidewalk cafes. 

Jelacic Square, is the 'Times Square' of Zagreb.  People are coming and going endlessly - perhaps Croatia's best people-watching destination.  It's hard to believe that this area once held the townspeople's farm fields.  Today it features a prominent equestrian statue of national hero Josip Jelacic, a 19th-century governor who extended citizens' rights and did much to unite the Croats within the Hapsburg Empire. 

At the square, we were entertained by a group of young people dressed in traditional costume and performing traditional folk dances.  Below the pictures is a short video.

Connecting the Lower Town with the Upper Town is a small funicular crawling up the hill.   It first came into service in 1889 and is looked upon fondly by the locals - both as a bit of nostalgia and as a way to avoid some steps.  The ride takes only 55 seconds - and at the top, there's a nice view of the city.

Facing the funicular is the Burglar's Tower, one of the original watchtowers, part of the city wall built in the 13th century.  The little cannon in the top-floor window is fired every day at noon - to commemorate a 15th-century Croat victory against the Ottoman Turks.

The Upper Town has gas streetlights, said to be lit each night by a city employee whose job is just to light the lamps each evening and douse them again every morning.

The Church of St. Mark is located on St. Mark's Square, where the original church was built in the 13th century.  The church's colorful tile roof depicts two coats of arms.  On the left: the red-and-white checkerboard symbolizes north-central Croatia, the three lions' heads stand for the Dalmatian Coast, and the marten running between the two rivers represents Slavonia, Croatia's northern, inland panhandle.  On the right:  is the seal of Zagreb, featuring a walled city. 

Near the church is the Parliament building, constructed in 1910.  As far back as the 12th century, Croatian noblemen gathered here to make important decisions regarding their territories.  This gradually evolved into today's modern Parliament. 

On the other side of the square is Ban's Palace, today the offices for the prime minister.  It was damaged during the war for independence, but has been repaired - different colored tiles on roof. 
















All around the town, there are flowers and touches of color to offset the endless gray stone. 

Another old church in the Upper Town the Church of Saint Catherine, built in the 17th Century.


Between St Mark's Square and the cathedral is the oldest pharmacy in town and second oldest in the country.  It was established in 1355 and recently restored. 

Just beyond the pharmacy is Zagreb's only surviving town gate, the Stone Gate.  It doesn't look like much, but inside the gate is a little chapel dedicated to(Mother Mary of the Stone Gate, Zagreb's patron saint.  The chapel contains a painting of Mary that miraculously survived a major fire in the adjoining house.  Many people light many candles and have place stone plaques on the wall to give thanks for prayers answered.  On the downhill side of the gate, there is a statue of St. George slaying the dragon (lots of dragons in these parts). 

Walking back to the Lower Town, we passed a necktie shop - reminding us that the necktie was "invented" in Croatia - it originally was part of the military uniform.

At Dolac Market, every day starting around 5 am, vendors pile their stalls with colorful fruits, vegetables, baskets and other products.  Dolac opened in 1930 and is largest open-air market.  Fruits, vegetables, plants and textiles are on the upper level, while meat, olives and herbs are in the covered area below.  Fish and cheese are in their own separate spaces to avoid aromatic overload.

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is Croatia's single most important church.   The 345-foot twin spires of this Gothic structure are covered with scaffolding; work began in 1990 on the cathedral's exterior and appears to be never-ending.  Despite the mess, it's easy to see why this building is a symbol of Zagreb. 

One of the most interesting things inside the church was a huge plaque inscribed in Glogolithic script.  This script was developed in the 9th Century for use in the Orthodox Church and was used for all the Slavic languages until the 12th or 13th Century.  It is the based for the Cyrillic (Russian) and modern Greek alphabets.

Of less cultural significance are the chandeliers - they came from a Las Vegas casino owned by a Croatian.  There was some controversy about whether or not to accept this gift, but here they are, hanging high above the chapel.

Outside the church, old defensive walls remain on three sides.  These walls with round towers were built in response to threats from the Ottoman Turks - between 1512 and 1521.  They are among the best-preserved Renaissance defenses in Europe.

Near the cathedral and market,  there are four "pizza-grill" restaurants and we headed there for lunch - on the recommendation of our guide.  We had a dish similar to the one pictured - seasoned beef, onions, warm bread, soft cheese, and pepper/paprika relish.  It was very tasty - and by far the cheapest meal in town.

After hiking all over town, it was time for a ride on the tram.  We hopped on Line Number 13 to points unknown - the only building we recognized was the Opera House.  We had a nice ride around town until we reached the end of the line and the conductor made us get off the tram - so there we were - not quite lost but not quite sure how we would get back to our hotel.  Fortunately, it was a short wait before another tram appeared heading back to the central city. 

VARAZDIN

We spent one day visiting the town of Varazdin, which was the capital of Croatia from 1756 to 1776.  Varazdin still has the architecture and decor for which it became known as the 'capitol of baroque.'  The town was the economic and military center of northern Croatia in the 17th and 18th centuries, thanks to the Jesuits who built baroque churches and monasteries, and the presence of many noble families who built magnificent palaces.  A great fire in 1776 halted the town's expansion, but did not destroy its historic center.   

Varazdin's centerpiece is its moated Castle, entered by a drawbridge.  Its Italian-Renaissance-style buildings, were added in the mid 16th-century, turning a one-time Gothic fort into a renaissance Wasserburg (water castle) with high earthen walls and moats filled with water. 

There's a drawbridge and guardhouse connecting the castle and the town. 

Inside, the castle is huge, with multiple floors, winding  stairways, and balconies overlooking the central area. 
















The castle now houses a museum with bits of history from the old town.

 Coats of Arms of leading families of the day.

Signs from local shops - the tailor and the blacksmith are pretty easy; the others require a little more imagination.

 

Old wooden targets from shooting contests - the date and the winner's name were inscribed on the target, which was  presented to the winner to keep.

 

Old weapons for hand-to-hand combat.

In the main town there is more history than can be absorbed in one stroll around the square - Venetian palaces, churches and other religious buildings, etc, etc.  It is a charming place, with only pedestrians and bicycles allowed in the city center - almost like the moat is still in place!

The Capuchine Church of the Holy Trinity (1705) is a simple old structure, and its bell was ringing a loud call to worship on Sunday morning.  

The Petrovic Palace is near the church - it was reconstructed in 1768, but still has (inside) a stone spiral staircase that dates to the 1600s.

Nearby, the First City Elementary School is considered to be a fine example of public architecture.  The inscription reads: "for the benefit and advancement of knowledge."

The Franciscan Monastery is a two-story building surrounding a cloister; it was erected in 1678

The female order of St.Ursula came to Varazdin around 1705 and built the Ursuline Church of the Birth of Jesus (1729).  It is noteworthy for its elongated high facade and slender, elegant steeple.

Nearby is the Ursuline Convent.  The Ursuline Sisters bought this house and the church grounds in 1749 to build a convent and a girl's school.

The 18th century Sermage Palace is richly decorated in Rococo style.  Today the palace houses an art gallery that brings together works by Croatian, Italian, and Scandinavian artists.

The 16th-century town house owned by the Ritz family is one of the oldest in Varazdin.  It now houses a coffee shop where we stopped for hot chocolate.  In Croatia, hot chocolate is something special - it is made with melted chocolate (not cocoa) and it's so thick that it must be eaten with a spoon. 
















Of course, no town would be complete without the open air market - this one had the usual amazing array of beautiful fresh vegetables. 

Just outside of the town of Varazdin, we stopped at a local vineyard for lunch.  This is the area which produces 90% of the white wine in Croatia, and the restaurant - the "Zlatne Gorice" (Golden Vineyard) is perched on a hill overlooking parts of Slovenia, Austria and Hungary.  The view inside was nice, too - we tried the local honey brandy for starters and had wonderful vegetable soup, followed by roast duck stuffed with pumpkin, a side of red and green cabbage marinated in a pumpkin oil dressing, and corn pie with berry compote for dessert.  All washed down, of course, with the home-grown white wine.  We all had a nice nap on the way back to our hotel ...

PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK

The towns and villages were fun to visit, but we really enjoyed the natural wonder of Plitvice Lakes National Park.   Its majestic waterfalls, lakes and forests have earned it a place on the UNESCO register of world natural heritage sites.  The Park's most compelling features are the waterfalls that connect 16 clear blue lakes, which are set in dense forests and soaring rock formations.  Imagine Niagara Falls diced and sprinkled over a heavily forested Grand Canyon.  Add to that a touch of fall color and it was a grand and glorious day.

Everywhere the water is crystal-clear.  This is partly because it comes directly from high mountain runoff, with little opportunity to become polluted or muddy.  And, thanks to deposits of travertine (powdery white limestone rock) under the water, the bottoms of the lake are entirely stone.  The water calcifies everything it touches - preventing the creation of mud. 

The lakes are separated by natural dams of travertine, which is deposited by the action of moss, algae and bacteria. The encrusted plants and bacteria accumulate on top of each other, forming travertine barriers that grow at the rate of about 1 cm per year.  Thus, over time, the water has simultaneously carved out and built up this fluid landscape.

Sometimes under the waterfalls, moss grows and becomes encrusted with travertine, leading to formation of a crag and then a cave roof.  If the water continues flowing the cave becomes progressively bigger.

 

The sixteen lakes are separated into the 12 Upper Lakes and the 4 Lower Lakes formed by runoff from the mountains.

 

The lakes are known for their distinctive colors, ranging from azure to green, grey or blue.  The colors change constantly depending on the quantity of minerals and organisms in the water, as well as the angle of sunlight. 

 

Plitvice's system of trails and boardwalks makes it possible to get immersed in the park's beauty (and sometimes in its water, too). 

Veili Slap (Big Waterfall) is the most dramatic waterfall in the park.  Here  the Plittvica River sends slender streams of water zooming 250 feet off the vertical granite face into Korana Gorge.

After an invigorating day out-of-doors, it was time for a little learning and discovery.  Everyone had enjoyed the honey brandy we tried in Varazdin, so today we stopped at a roadside stand to try a local farmer's produce - not only brandy, but wine, cheese, and honey. 

Back on the bus, Petra made her way up and down the aisle pouring a taste of one bottle and then another.  She assured us it all had outstanding medicinal qualities, so we should be feeling pretty good from here on out...

The ride through the mountains to the Adriatic Sea was pretty mellow after all that brandy, but we did wake up for a memorable rest stop. What a nice view of the town of Sibenek!  The view was a bonus, but this rest stop was like many we were to see in coming weeks - not just restrooms, but also a restaurant and coffee shop, a gift shop and a playground - most of them also had gasoline and other services for cars and trucks.  A one-stop shop for real.

M/V ARTEMIS

After the long ride to the coast, we finally made it to our ship, the M/V Artemis.  Artemis is a lovely little ship - just under 200 feet in length, with space for 50 passengers and 21 crew.  The cabins were spacious and we settled in to enjoy the next 10 days in style - and without constant packing and unpacking. 

Here's the ship, moored offshore while we're taking an excursion on a smaller boat.  And another shot of the ship docked while we're off exploring somewhere. 

Here is a picture of the ship captain with our two guides, as well as a shot of Petra hard at work planning our next outing.  Below are some of our favorite musicmakers.

Food onboard was good:  big buffets for breakfast and lunch and a full dinner every night.  Here's the chef stirring up some pasta and a one of the buffets.   

Relaxing onboard was good too ..

SPLIT

Split is Croatia's second largest city, and its history goes way back to the Roman Empire.  In the fourth century A.D., the Roman Emperor Diocletian (245-313) wanted to retire in his native Dalmatia, so he built a huge palace here.  Eventually, the Romans abandoned the palace, and locals, fleeing seventh-century Slavic invaders, moved in and made themselves at home.  This remarkable palace is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Over time, a medieval town sprouted from the rubble of the old palace.  In the 15th century, the Venetians took over and fortified Split, adding a new layer of Gothic-Renaissance architecture.  Even as Split grew, the nucleus of the town remained the ruins of Diocletian's Palace.  Here our local guide gets us oriented to what was and what is ...

Outside the old palace, the Riva is a pedestrian walkway along the city harbor.  This is the  town's promenade, an integral part of Mediterranean culture.  After dinner, Split residents gather their family and friends for a stroll on the Riva - another prime spot for people-watching. 

The "front" of today's Split - facing the harbor - was actually the back door of Diocletian's Palace.  There was no embankment in front of the palace in the old days, so the water came right up to the door, sort of an emergency exit by boat.     Halfway up the facade, there is a row of 42 arched window frames (mostly filled in today); these marked an arcade along the seaside half of the palace, the apartment where Diocletian and his family lived.  The inland (non-view) half of the palace was home to 700 servants, bodyguards and soldiers. 

Our tour of Diocletian's Palace began on the sea-side, at the Bronze Gate, which opens into the podrum or basement area.  This was where palace staff cooked meals for the emperor and his guests, fixed palace equipment and took care of ongoing maintenance.  It was also where water was stored from three different sources - a freshwater spring, a sulfur spring, and the sea.  In later years, the basement was used to dump garbage, and archeologists are still sifting through the goodies here.  In excavated areas, there are shops and galleries.  

A staircase leads up to the Peristyle , which was the palace's main courtyard and the place where Diocletian received important visitors.  The empty hole in the ceiling was once capped by a dome and the ceiling itself was covered with frescoes and mosaics. Today the Peristyle is one of the busiest spot in the historic city and home to cafes, boutique hotels, the cathedral, and passages leading into the heart of Old Town.  In this grand space, we were entertained by an all-male ensemble of klapa singers, performing traditional a capella harmonies. The singers were excellent, the acoustics superb.  The video below gives a little idea of the beatiful sound. 



The Cathedral of St. Dominus (St. Duje), on the eastern side of the Peristyle, was originally built around 305 A.D. as the mausoleum of Diocletian.  After the fall of Rome, it was converted into the town's cathedral - the oldest (and perhaps the smallest) cathedral building in the world and an interesting mixture of Roman temple and Catholic church.  There are tombs all around the cathedral - this was prime post-mortem real estate, since being buried closer to a cathedral improved your chances of going to heaven.  Note that the church tower is easily visible from many angles, but it's impossible to see the whole church at one time because it is closely surrounded by buildings and/or ruins.

Diocletian believed himself to be Jovius, the son of Jupiter.  It's not surprising that upon exiting the mausoleum, worshippers would look straight ahead to the Temple of Jupiter.  About the time that the mausoleum became a cathedral, this temple was converted into a baptistery - St. John's Baptistery.

 

Diocletian's living quarters were on the floor above the Peristyle.  His apartments occupied nearly half of the palace on the southern side, facing the harbor.  The barely visible Roman columns outlined a promenade for the Emperor to take a walk while enjoying a wonderful view

There are still apartments on the upper levels of the old palace - in fact, today, some 3,000 people live or work here.  It feels like a virtual open-air museum - inside walls built nearly 2000 years ago.  Laundry hangs over historic markers and the city's contemporary life marches on. 

The city is an absolute maze of narrow alleys with boutiques, galleries, cafes, and Roman artifacts around every corner. 

The Golden Gate was the main entry of Diocletian's Palace.  It's name wasn't literal, but was meant to suggest  the importance of this gateway to Salona, the Roman provincial capital at the time. 

 Outside the gate is a big statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin, a 10th-century Croatian priest who tried to convince the Vatican to allow sermons to be said in Croatian, rather than Latin.  The sculpture is entirely black except for one toe, which is shining bronze from so many people touching it for good luck.

Outside the palace walls, there is a lively open-air market.  Locals shop for produce and clothes here, and (of course) there's a wide selection of t-shirts and other souvenirs.  We sampled some dried figs, which were delicious.

 

Our arrival in Split marked the beginning of the cruise portion of our trip, so ... it was time for the Captain to host a welcome dinner - complete with champagne.  The captain introduced the crew and told us a bit about our ship - it's only three years old and was built in Split just for Overseas Adventure Travel's trips around the Mediterranean.

After dinner, it was showtime - we were entertained by a dancing troupe of young people from the community.  Some of the guys were so tall, it looked like they might hit the ceiling - our guide had told us that men on the Dalmatian coast were tall and good-looking, and she was right about that.  Below the pictures is a short video.

TROGIR

While the ship was in the port of Split, we took a half-day trip to Trogir, a small island with a very old town encased in 15th-century walls.  The unique architecture, decorative stonework, and medieval character of Trogir's Old Town led UNESCO to include the entire town in its World Heritage List - as one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe. 

We entered the old town through the original gate and found ourselves surrounded by all sorts of different architectural styles - Roman, Gothic, Renaissance, and Venetian.  The narrow stone streets lead among stone houses built long, long ago. 

All the different architectural styles found in Trogir can be seen in the main square.  The 13th-century Rector's Palace, now the Town Hall, combines a Renaissance facade with Gothic staircase. 

Palaces built around huge Renaissance courtyards have arcaded facades in the Venetian style. 

On the main square is the town's centerpiece, the Cathedral of St. Lawrence.  Built from the 13th through the 17th century, the cathedral is filled with history.  The bell tower alone took 200 years to build, leaving it a textbook lesson in Dalmatian architecture styles:  straightforward Gothic at the bottom, Venetian Gothic in the middle, and Renaissance at the top. 

The Church of St. John the Baptist has a gorgeous carved portal.  It was built in the 13th century and now houses an art museum. 

The Benedictine Monastery of St. Nicholas dates from the 11th century.

A good place for aimless strolling is the harborfront promenade along the southern edge of town.  Lined with restaurants, ice cream stands and shops, it winds around the old town wall alongside the port full of sailboats. 

At the far end of the promenade is a 14th-century fortress, complete with lookout tower. 

We ended our visit wandering around the city market - always an interesting place to see what the locals are having for dinner - and to wonder why we don't have more places like this back home.

 

DUBROVNIK

Dubrovnik is a living fairy tale: ringed by thick medieval walls, its Old Town is traffic-free, with lively squares, quiet cobbled streets, and steep alleys. 

Five hundred years ago, Dobrovnik was a major maritime power, with the third-biggest navy in the Mediterranean.  The city flourished in the 15th and 16th century, but an earthquake destroyed nearly everything in 1667.  Most of the town was rebuilt, only to be hit hard by Serbian shells during the 1991-1992 war.  Again, the city has rebuilt and the only physical reminders of the war are lots of new orange roof tiles.  Dubrovnik was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.

Just outside the Old Town wall, it is possible to see the two forts that protected the city.  To the right is Fort Lovrijenac, built on a high, rocky peninsula that juts into the sea - it is Dubrovnik's oldest defensive structure.  To the left is Bokar Fortress, built in the 16th century and connected to the city wall.

We entered the Old Town through the Pile Gate, a round entrance tower in the Old Town Wall.  Over the entrance, there is an image of St. Blaise cradling Dubrovnik in his arms.  From 1537 on, the outer gate was guarded and the wooden drawbridge leading to it was pulled up at night.  The moat was drained long ago and is now just a green space. 

Just inside the gate is the small Church of St. Savior, built by appreciative locals to thank God after Dubrovnik made it through a 1520 earthquake.  When the massive 1667 quake destroyed most of the city, this church was one of the few buildings left intact.  During the recent war, the church survived another close call when a shell exploded on the ground right in front of it.

Also just inside the Pile Gate is the Franciscan Monastery, now a museum.  It has a peaceful cloister, with 60 Romanesque-Gothic double pillars.  In the far corner stands the monastery's original medieval pharmacy, one of the oldest in Europe - it opened in 1317.  

On the square in front of the monastery, there is a giant, round structure - Onofrio's Big Fountain, built in 1444.  In the Middle Ages, Dubrovnik had a complicated aqueduct system that brought water from the mountains seven miles away. The water ended up here, at the town's biggest fountain, before continuing through the city.  

Running through the heart of the Old Town is the 300-yard long Stradun promenade - packed with people and lined with shops.  This is the heart of the city - an Old World shopping mall by day and a sprawling cocktail party after dark.  

The buildings along the way are almost identical in style, a result of post-earthquake construction in the 17th century.  The ground floor of the building was (and still is) used for commercial purposes, while the family lived upstairs. 

Here is one of the arches that frame a combination door and window - the sill was used as a counter over which business was conducted - in olden times, customers did not enter the shop itself.

Orlando's Column was erected in 1417.  Anytime a decision was made by the Republic, the town crier came to Orlando's Column to announce the news. 

Orlando faces the Sponza Palace, built in 1522 and probably the best surviving example of Dubrovnik's Golden Age.  It's a combination of Renaissance (ground-floor arches) and Venetian Gothic (upstairs windows).  Before the 1667 earthquake, houses up and down the street looked like this.

The town's Bell Tower or Clock Tower dates from 1444, but it was rebuilt when it started to lean in the 1920's.  The big clock looks like an octopus, but only one of its hands tells time. On top of the tower are the famous 'Zelenci' bronze men who strike the gigantic bell every hour.

Next to the Bell Tower is the City Hall and Onofrio's Little Fountain, the little brother of the one at the other end of the Stradun.  Nearby is the Town Cafe - historically Dubrovnik's favorite spot for gossiping and people-watching.

At the far end of the Stradum is the Rector's Palace.  In the middle ages, Dubrovnik was ruled by a rector who was elected by the nobility.  To prevent any one person from becoming too powerful or subject to graft, the rector's term was limited to one month - during that term,  the rector lived upstairs in this palace.

Across the square is the Church of St. Blaise, dedicated to the patron saint of Dubrovnik.  According to legend, a millennium ago St. Blaise warned a local priest that the Venetians would soon attack the city.  The priest alerted the authorities, who prepared for war.  Of course, the prediction came true and St. Blaise has been a Dubrovnik symbol ever since. 

Dubrovnik's original 12th-century Cathedral was funded largely by the English King Richard the Lionhearted.  On his way back from the Third Crusade, Richard was shipwrecked nearby and promised God that if he survived, he'd build a church on the spot where he landed.  The church was the finest Romanesque church on the Adriatic Sea -- until it was destroyed by the 1667 earthquake.  The current version is 18th-century Roman Baroque.

Across town from the Pile Gate is a second entrance in the Old Town Walls - the Ploce Gate.  It, too, features a stone bridge and a drawbridge that was pulled up every night to protect the city.

Nearby is one of three access points to reach the top of the city wall.  These walls have been around the town almost as long as there's been a Dubrovnik.  The walls are quite thick and offer a wonderful way to see the city - we made the mile-and-a-quarter trek all the way around. 

With a sea of orange roofs on one side and the real sea on the other, the view changes with every step.  This also is the best illustration of the damage the city sustained in the recent war - nearly two-thirds of Dubrovnik's roofs were replaced after the bombing.   It's easy to pick out the bright orange tiles as compared to the older, darker ones.

After one last look down the main street, we headed back to the ship - we rode on the city bus to the harbor - nice ride, great people-watching.
























GROMACA

Our last evening in Croatia was a special treat - we went to the little farming village of Gromaca - hidden in the hills beyond Dubrovnik.  This village was badly damaged during wartime occupation, and many of its residents became refugees who sought shelter in Dubrovnik and other towns.  Today people are  back in their homes and the village (100 residents) is largely rebuilt.  Large numbers of the adult population work in Dubrovnik, but they still produce their own food and wine and preserved their cultural traditions. 

We were invited to dinner with Niko Musladin and his family - wife, daughter and son.  The daughter (Kate) met us at the bus and walked us to their lovely home - first stop was the outdoor patio, where they had set up a table for us to try some of the grapes they grow and to taste a couple kinds of homemade brandy - grappa (aka firewater) and walnut brandy (delicious!).

Next Kate showed us around the property - first stop was the smokehouse, which they use to cure ham.  Once the hams are ready, they are stored in brown paper bags, along with lots of potatoes.  It seemed a bit different for a smoke house since it had windows and a bench on one side - then she told us that this was her grandparents’ original home.  The family now has a bigger house with more amenities, but they still treasure this old building.

Another building was dedicated to wine-making.  There were big vats bubbling away, as well as kegs for storing the wine.  This area is also used for making olive oil.

Onward to the house, where Niko had laid out quite a spread - all homemade - prosciutto, dry and fresh cheese, ripe tomatoes, homemade olive oil and bread.  All this was just the appetizer, but it was so good that it would have been fine to make the whole meal right here.

The main course was stuffed bell peppers and mashed potatoes. This sounds simple, but it was heavenly.   This was followed by apple strudel.  And, of course, all of this eating was accompanied by plenty of their homemade red wine.  Everything was delicious - good food and a fun evening - nice opportunity to meet some local folks and get a glimpse of how they live.